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Frequently-Asked Questions


Cedar Ridge Beagles
c/o Toni Perdew
(the best method to reach me is via e-mail)
Bedford, Iowa
Click here for additional contact information.

Our premises are monitored via video surveillance for your puppy's safety!



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  1. How soon can we pick up our new puppy?

    Puppies should not leave their littermates until they are at least 8 weeks old. Until this age, they are in need to learning socialization rules from their littermates. If taken away too early, puppies are more prone to become biters and whiners, as they didn't learn needed rules from their siblings. For their health as well, they should be allowed this fun and low-stress time with their brothers and sisters.

  2. Will we get to see pictures of our puppy as he/she grows up, before we pick him or her up?

    Yes! We try to take pictures approximately every two weeks while puppies are with us. Don't hold us "exactly to the day," as this is just what we try to do. My family's school, church, community, and on-farm obligations often get us off schedule. When new pictures are taken, resized/cropped, and uploaded to the web site, we e-mail the families to let them know new photos are on the web site. See this page for more information about our picture-taking schedule.

  3. What health care will our puppy have received before leaving CR Beagles?

    We will send you an updated health record right before or right after you get your puppy. Before puppies leave us, they will have received at least the first vaccination in their puppy series, plus will have been dewormed several times. We also give puppies medication to prevent coccidia while they are here (a common cause of puppy diarrhea...read more here). These things will all be noted on your health report. Please take a copy of your health report to your vet at your first visit so he/she knows the puppy's health history.

  4. When will our puppy need to see a vet?

    We like our puppies to see a vet within 72 hours of leaving CR Beagles. This allows your vet to evaluate the puppy's health and how he/she is handling leaving our environment. It also gives your vet the opportunity to discuss the puppy's vaccination and deworming schedule with you. Puppies MUST have a series of vaccinations through about 4 months of age to help prevent diseases. After this series, most dogs can have once-yearly vaccinations to maintain their immunity, but puppies need the extra help that this series provides. **Remember to take the health history we give you to the vet for him/her to review.

  5. Do you use Advantage/Frontline, and if not how soon can we use Advantage because we do not want fleas in our house?

    We've never had fleas, but I do recommend monthly treatments because fleas can be picked up from the yard, parks, vet's office, etc. When we send/give you your puppy's health record, check to see if the puppy has had a Frontline treatment. It should not be closer than 4 weeks between treatments.

  6. Do I need to buy a carrier?

    S/he will come with a small travel carrier if she flies to you that will work for several weeks. (If you pick her up in person, buying a carrier might be a good idea.)  After that, we find that a large carrier (for a 20 lb dog or so) is good to have for future vet visits over the years, and for traveling in general.

  7. Do we need to buy a metal cage for crate training? If so, how large? And what is crate training?

    I do like crate training for the times that nobody is in the house during the workday/school day. Some people only do this during potty training, and others use the crate as the puppy's home while the family is away. This page  has some very good articles about it.

    Also, see our links at the bottom of our Puppy Development page.

    Dogs don't like to potty in their "bedroom" areas, so most will try to hold it if they can until you get home. Initially, it might be hard for a puppy to go that long. But shortly, they will learn your schedule and will wait for your home arrival to go.

    Most beagles will mature to between 15 and 35 lbs, so buy a crate that will be comfortable for your puppy even when she's mature.

  8. How do we potty train a puppy?

    Visit here for some links about potty training. Searching the Internet will result in many good articles that will help.

  9. What size Harness/leash should I buy?

    Initially, an 8 to 12" collar (very small) is the right size. Our beagle puppies from 8 to 10 weeks old generally weigh between 3.5 and 5.5 pounds, so a big collar will come right off her head. We buy collars and leashes from Wal-Mart or any pet store for our puppies at home.

  10. Do I need to buy a cozy doggy bed?

    Oh, they do love those! Some puppies might confuse that with a chew toy, so don't buy an expensive one until you see what she'll do. :-)

  11. Do you have a good food recommendation and vitamin in mind?

    Puppies need to be on a good quality food formulated JUST for puppies for at least four months. This used to be recommended for a full year, but research has begun to show that we are feeding our puppies "too well" and they are growing too fast. Growing too fast can contribute to joint problems later in life. Please talk to your veterinarian to learn what he/she recommends. I had always heard that we should feed a puppy formulation for 7-12 months until I went to a small animal specialist in 2017 and learned about the recent research and got his recommendation. I was surprised!

    From just prior to weaning until our puppies leave us, they experience a variety of foods and supplements including puppy milk replacer formula, fresh goat milk from our farm, canned puppy food (small amounts only), probiotics, Nutrisource Small/Medium Breed Puppy, and Diamond Naturals Small Breed Puppy. Initially, we are more concerned with getting them to eat solid food than worrying about "which food" they start eating.

    Don't Worry! :-)  The most important components of our feeding program are those that your puppy is eating right before he/she leaves us, because you should try (as best as you can) to mimic that diet for a week or so before changing the puppy's diet. At that time, we typically are just feeding our puppies a mixture of two dry puppy foods or (more often) just our most-favorite dry puppy food, pictured below.

    What Our Puppies Are Accustomed To Eating

    Our puppies are currently eating
    Diamond Naturals (Chicken and Rice) Small Breed Puppy Food
    (5 stars out of 5 stars, rated by Dog Food Advisor)
    See http://www.diamondpet.com/dealer_locator/ for online and physical addresses.
    Menards stores carry it, as well as many farm-oriented stores, such as Tractor Supply, Orscheln Farm and Home, local farmer's elevators/co-ops, etc.
    Many people also order from various sources online.

    (It is typically NOT found at Petsmart/Petco)

    If you are soon to receive a puppy, we recommend that you try to find
     a small bag of this food your puppy is currently eating
    to use for a week.
    We will send a little bit with you to get you started, too.
    After a few days, you can begin mixing it with the food
     you plan to feed throughout your puppy's first year until the small bag is gone.


    We also recommend NuVet antioxidant supplements above any other "vitamin" on the market!
    Scroll down or click the bottle (left) for information about high-quality
    vitamin/antioxidant supplements.
    NuVet supplements usually must be ordered online (see information at the link), but a very few veterinarians carry them as well. If you would like to give NuVet supplements, we recommend ordering them. It is easier and faster than driving to the vet, who may or may not carry them (and may try to sell a different vitamin to you that might not have all the benefits of NuVet).

    These supplements are cold-pressed, not cooked. Therefore, the antioxidants/prebiotics/probiotics/minerals are not damaged by heat.

    How Much Food and How Often?

    • We keep Diamond Naturals Small Breed Puppy Food (unless an exception above exists) with the puppies almost all the time until they are 8 or 9 weeks old. We need to offer food most of each day to ensure that all puppies in the litter get enough food, rather than having one slower-eating puppy not have enough. This also helps prevent any puppies from feeling that they need to rapidly eat as much food as they can, out of fear that they will be hungry when there isn't any food available if the other puppies eat it all.

    • At 8 to 10 weeks, beagle puppies should be offered 3 meals per day, depending upon their weight/size. Feeding "meals" after a puppy leaves littermates will help you with potty training. For a good eater, 2 meals per day may be sufficient. But 3 meals per day is even better for 8 to 10 week old puppies under 6 lbs, in our opinion.

    • Check the feeding suggestions for the brand of puppy food you choose. The daily recommended amount will be listed by either puppy weight and age, or else by the puppy's weight at maturity. 
      ~"Most" of our puppies are eating between 2/3rds cup and 1 cup per day when they leave us around 8 weeks of age.
      ~Our beagle puppies "typically" weigh between 4.5 and 5.5 lbs at 8 weeks. Puppies this size are usually eating about 3/4ths of a cup per day, sometimes more.
      ~The small beagles might weigh 3.5 to 4 lbs at 8 weeks, and they may be eating only a half or two-thirds of a cup per day. 
      ~Look at your puppy's mother/father (link is on the web page that your puppy's pictures are shown on) for their weights to estimate your puppy's mature weight.
      ~I have found that the recommendations on the bags are often too much for beagles, and the beagles get fat when fed that amount. For growing puppies, it's best to evaluate the puppy's condition every 3 or 4 days halfway between feedings or at the same time each evaluation day. If he looks like he is losing weight, up the feed a bit. If he is staying the same and looks good, keep the volume the same.
      ~I don't like to see puppies' ribs, but it's ok to see a bit of hourglass shape when viewed from above. On adult beagles, there should be a definite waist/hourglass shape. Puppies tend to be more round, though. For the first several months, puppies typically do have a bit of chub, but we don't want them to be obese because that is hard on their joints.
      ~It is hard to feel confident about food volume, so I recommend asking the vet to tell you if your puppy is too fat or too thin those first couple months after coming home, each time you visit the veterinarian. After puppies are 5 or 6 months old, they have more of an adult dog conformation, and you can more easily see just by looking for that waistline.

    Examples of Dog Food Brands, and Comparison

    A high-quality puppy food is essential for the first few months. 

    Lamb and Rice or chicken and rice foods (no corn in the ingredients) are often recommended for breeds of dogs with large ears that lay down, like beagles.  Blue Buffalo offers several good puppy foods. We also like the quality of NutriSource puppy food, and often supplement our puppies with that when nearby stores run out of Diamond Naturals. 
    However, millions of puppies have been raised on non-specialty store-bought food, and you sure can choose that route as well as long as it's specifically formulated for puppies. After the first year (some people claim after 7 or 8 months), your puppy can receive a regular adult formulation.

    How do you know if a food is good? Look at the ingredients...if "corn" or "corn meal" (or similar) is in the first few ingredients, it isn't viewed to be as good as if those ingredients were lower on the list. Better yet, avoid a corn-based feed entirely and look instead for rice. Or, consider a diet of food totally without corn, rice, wheat, etc. This can be accomplished via prepared foods such as Natures Variety, or by careful research on your part and feeding a diet of raw meats.

    Foods I Like
    Good Ingredient List

    Common Foods I Like Less (below)
    But are still formulated for puppies and will probably be fine.

    (see the prominent location of "corn" in ingredients):


    Click the image above for a comparison of several popular puppy foods' first 10 ingredients and their PRICE (around 2013).

    Check out http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com for reviews of dog foods. I don't know if this site is truly independent or if it's sponsored by dog food manufacturers yet. If it's independent, it's kind of a neat site!

    Vitamins and/or Antioxidant Supplements

    Puppy foods are supposed to be complete, but they are cooked. Cooking the kibble damages some of the ingredients, causing likely nutritional gaps in puppy foods. If you are going to give a vitamin to bridge those gaps, why not give the best one you can?

    An excellent vitamin we definitely support is made by NuVet Labs. This product can help puppies develop stronger immune systems, which can help your puppy be healthier AND can even assist the vaccinations your puppy receives in providing the highest-possible protection. These supplements are the best I've seen, as they are cold pressed (not cooked) which means the ingredients aren't damaged by heat. They are BOTH vitamins, and antioxidant supplements (plus contain uncooked probiotics), in one tasty treat.

    You may have to use my order code if you order via phone: 23915
    Or, order by clicking the bottle image, below:

    NuVet Plus: Natural, Powerful Immune System Support

    • Veterinarian Recommended and Scientifically Formulated to Provide Everything Your Pet Needs for Optimal Health!

    • NuVet Labs Goal is to Help Increase Your Pet's Longevity and Quality of Life. Many breeders will only honor their health guarantee if the puppy's families can prove that their puppy is getting NuVet vitamins daily through receipts for purchase. I do not require that. But, that's a testament to how strongly breeders feel about the quality of these vitamins.

    • When a puppy is moved away from its mother and siblings to live with its new family, the immune system is weakened by the stress of adoption and exposure to bacteria and viruses in its new home. These are pathogens for which the puppys body has not yet developed antibodies, and it is widely recognized that the immune system is less effective in times of stress. So starting NuVet Plus now can be important to helping your puppy grow into a healthy adult.

    • NuVet Plus for Canines provides the very best human-grade, natural ingredients available, and utilizes the latest advances in medical, veterinary, and nutritional science.

    • NuVet products help put pets on the path to perfect health and support their development through every stage in life.

    • NuVet Plus is not available in stores or directly to the general public. You can only purchase NuVet Plus when you get a recommendation only from a pet professional, which is why I think you might need my order code, 23915, if you want to order.

    • Thousands of the nations top veterinarians and other pet industry professionals use NuVet Plus for their own pets and recommend it to their clients pets!

    • NuVet Plus is Natural No Artificial Sweeteners or Fillers

    • Video about NuVet Plus and more information (opens in a new window), if I can get the player to work. ;-)

    What If Our Puppy Doesn't Eat Or Drink Well At First?

    Normally, there is very little problem with eating habits in the new home environment. But just like when we humans are away from home, puppies will sometimes be too caught up in their new place and the excitement to eat and drink on their normal schedule.

    If possible, offer a couple teaspoons of plain or vanilla yogurt with active cultures (most brands have active cultures, including the Wal-Mart store brand) once or twice daily. This not only is a treat that might get your puppy to eat, but the cultures are also good for digestion during this time of stress.

    *This seems to work well:  Buy a can of dog or puppy food (any brand) and mix no more than "a couple tablespoons" with his/her dry kibble, stirring it up so the canned food coats almost all of the dry kibbles (don't put too much on, or the puppy might get diarrhea). Or, do the same with a couple tablespoons of cottage cheese.

    You can also buy puppy or all-species milk replacer powder from a vet or pet supply store, and sprinkle that on the puppy's dry kibble (then stir to coat the food) to make it more appealing. See image below (don't put too much on, or the puppy might get diarrhea):

    One food caution is to not give canned puppy food unless "needed" to entice him to eat...and then only in controlled amounts. Canned puppy food is not very nutritious, and also puppies will overeat if allowed to. This can lead to bloated stomachs, gas, vomiting, and diarrhea, and can require a trip to the emergency room. It is a good idea to have canned puppy food on hand, but if you use it, we recommend mixing no more than 2 tablespoons of it with about 1/4-1/2 cup of dry food so the canned food coats the kibbles. This would only be necessary if he was not eating very well due to his new environment. Sometimes they do that for a day or two.

    We've also had people put canned or fresh cooked (cooled) chicken broth over the dry kibbles, and even using a little broth or tuna juice in water if needed to get the puppies to drink.

    Again, because this is very important! PLEASE DO NOT FEED YOUR PUPPY CANNED PUPPY FOOD in unlimited amounts soon after receiving him/her. Drastic changes in their diets can cause severe digestive upset. Do keep a couple cans of soft food on hand to use to tempt the puppy to eat if he/she is off feed. But give just a couple tablespoons at a time to prevent overeating and bloating. If the puppy eats soft food until he bloats, he could begin a cycle of vomiting/diarrhea that could lead to blood sugar problems and anemia which could be fatal.



  12. What toys should we have on hand?

    Have some simple toys for her to play with and to satisfy her chew desire. "Greenies" can make their stools green, so might best be avoided until potty training is complete for the sake of your carpet. :-)

    There are lots of stuffed animal type toys, and firm chew toys that are great for dogs at Wal-Mart and pet stores/vet offices. We've heard that rawhide chews are not good for puppies, because as they swallow the small pieces created by tearing them up, they can get irritated bowels from the sharp edges. Make sure toys don't have plastic pieces unless you only use them during supervised play. Puppies are very good at getting the 'squeaker' out of toys and can swallow the squeaker and choke or get bowel obstructions.

    Visit this guide to dog chew toys. Some favorites we hear about are Nylabones and Kongs. You don't need a lot of toys. Just a few good ones will be quite sufficient.

  13. Do you have a list of supplies that might help us shop before our puppy comes home?

    Yep, we have an ever-evolving list of ideas for you on this page.

  14. What should I take to the airport with me to pick my puppy up if he/she is flying?

    We have compiled a list of things to help you prepare. Scroll toward the bottom of our Shipping page.

  15. Is my puppy accustomed to being around cats?

    We have cats both outside and inside, and the puppies see them every day and also can come right in contact with them when we have the puppies in the house. Normally, our neutered male cat comes right up to the puppies and they see him and go for him as if they think he's their mother. He then jumps up onto a piece of furniture as if to say "Ha ha! You can't reach me, you poor vertically-challenged puppies!" Sooner or later, the cat gets right into the middle of things. He does bat them with his front feet, but he keeps his claws in. Gradually, the puppies figure out that he is absolutely no fun, and that all he wants to do is to bite their tails because those wagging things just HAVE to be a cat toy.

    I imagine your cats will investigate and then get where he can't reach them. Eventually, they'll put the puppy in his place and then they will all coexist well. That has been my experience, anyway. :-)

    Click here to view a video clip of one of our puppies with his cat friend in his new home:
    Guinevere the cat and Zelda, the beagle puppy

  16. Where else can I find answers to questions in general?

    Searching the Internet is a superb way to get answers to questions about training, health, treating minor health issues, etc. We have collected info and made a few educational pages that are listed on our Site Map page that could help, too.

  17. We have heard that AKC-registered dogs are better than other registries' dogs. Is this true? Does the registration association matter?

    AKC's web site says that AKC registration is not to be considered a guarantee of quality.

    AKC is a registry body. A registration certificate identifies the dog as the offspring of a known sire and dam, born on a known date. It in no way indicates the quality or state of health of the dog.

    All of the dog registries are companies that make a profit from storing dog pedigrees and issuing pedigree certificates. So the dogs' quality and their health is totally dependent upon the knowledge and skill of the breeders of the dogs. I've seen some terrible-quality AKC dogs, and some absolutely beautiful APRI-registered dogs. The association doesn't have any bearing upon that.

    An example of how dogs from other registries can be the same quality as AKC dogs might be that some of our beagles are registered with AKC, APRI, and UKC (triple registered). This doesn't mean that they are necessarily better than a dog we own that might just be UKC registered....it just means that I've paid money to three different companies to get their registration completed with each of the three companies.

    Also, AKC shows are geared around "beauty." In an AKC show, the dog is judged on its conformation and color, for example. But in a UKC show, the dog is judged not only on it's "looks," but also on how well it behaves and does its job (works) in the area that the breed specializes in.

    In my opinion, if you aren't planning to show, you should not be concerned with "which" association a dog is registered with, and instead should be more interested in the quality and disposition of the puppy and/or its parents, and the trustworthiness and knowledge of the breeder you buy from.

    More about some registration associations here.

  18. What is the living environment your adult beagles have?

    Our adult beagles are NOT raised in above-the-ground cages, as some breeders do. We do keep our adults in fenced-in areas (to prevent unwanted pregnancies and to avoid exposure to viruses, protozoa, and other germs found in the environment), and they have room to exercise and are let out into a play area twice daily for fun and even more exercise. This whole procedure helps us keep our dogs healthy and as free of germs as possible.

    They have a heated building in the winter. In the summer, their pens are surrounded by marigolds, zinnias, and canna flowers. :-) In the winter....well, Iowa is not very pretty in the winter. :-(

    We do not have our dogs on cement, because it's bad for their joints. It would be easy to clean, but we don't feel it's healthy for them. Instead, their areas have a tiny gravel about the size of a pea or up to marble sized, over a base of larger gravel. This footing is softer, easy to maintain, and we can frequently add new and clean footing to it as needed. It's kind of like big pieces of kitty litter. The play area has a deep sand cover for them to run and play on.

E-mail us if you have a good question to add here.


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Cedar Ridge Beagles
c/o Toni Perdew
(the best method to reach me is via e-mail)
Bedford, Iowa
Click here for additional contact information.

Our premises are monitored via video surveillance for your puppy's safety!